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GIFT  OF 


FLORA 

OF  THE  PACIFIC 
COAST 

By  HARVEY  MONROE  HALL 

Assistant  Professor  of  Botany 
University  of  Calif ornia 


Reprinted  from  Nature  and  Science  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Published  by  Paul  Elder  and  Company,  San  Francisco,  1915. 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC 
COAST 

BY  HARVEY  MONROE  HALL  I  4 

Assistant  Professor  of  Botany, 

University  of  California  ) 


HE  flora  of  the  Pacific  Coast  offers  many  at- 
tractions to  the  botanical  traveler.    No  matter 


T 

A  what  phase  of  botany  may  interest  him 
most,  whether  it  be  the  aesthetic,  the  systematic, 
the  genetic,  or  the  ecologic,  he  will  find  ample  ma- 
terial for  his  studies  and  a  never-ending  succession 
of  problems  to  tax  his  skill  as  an  investigator.  The 
flowers  are  more  highly  colored  than  are  those 
of  most  other  regions,  and  the  number  of  species 
is  larger,  while  fluctuating  variations  in  vegetative 
characters  are  exceedingly  abundant  and  often  give 
rise  to  very  dissimilar  forms  within  the  species. 

The  diverse  and  variable  character  of  the  west- 
ern flora  is  undoubtedly  due  in  large  measure  to  a 
wide  variety  of  climatic,  soil,  and  other  environ- 
mental factors.  At  the  lower  altitudes  are  desert 
areas  where  the  vegetation  is  strongly  xerophytic 
and  the  flora  evidently  related  to  that  of  Mexico,  the 
high  mountain  summits  are  likewise  arid  but  the 
vegetation  here  is  Alpine  in  character  and  the  flora 
undoubtedly  of  boreal  origin.  Between  these  ex- 
tremes are  areas  of  highly  diversified  topography. 
Rugged  mountains  alternate  with  fertile  valleys; 
deep  canons  furnish  walls  of  varying  slope  and  all 
exposures;  there  are  lakes,  swamps,  alkaline  depres- 
sions, and  in  addition  such  variety  of  soils  that 
nearly  every  class  of  plants  somewhere  finds  condi- 
tions suitable  to  its  needs.  The  Sonoran,  or  Mexican, 
element  of  the  flora  occupies  most  of  southern  Cali- 
fornia and  extends  north  through  the  interior  val- 
leys even  into  Washington.  The  boreal  element  is 
naturally  best  represented  in  Washington,  Oregon, 
and  Idaho  although  the  boreal  zones  extend  down 
the  whole  length  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  into 
southern  California.  Where  the  two  meet  there 
occurs  a  mingling  of  the  northern  and  southern 
elements  and  in  many  places  one  also  encounters 
a  peculiar  flora,  especially  of  shrubby  species,  not 
closely  related  to  that  of  any  other  region  and 
believed  by  many  to  be  endemic. 

In  the  following  account  we  shall  be  able  to 
mention  the  flora  of  only  a  few  of  the  more  promi- 
nent and  accessible  plant  formations.  The  desert 

147 


476434 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

area  is  entirely  omitted  since  its  flora  is  described 
in  a  succeeding  chapter. 

Coastal  Formations  (chiefly  of  the  Upper  Sonoran 
zone) . — Except  for  those  places  where  the  bluffs  or 
mountains  extend  to  the  water's  edge,  the  shore  line 
exhibits  a  series  of  sandy  beaches  often  backed  by 
a  belt  of  dunes  of  varying  width.  Here  is  found 
a  characteristic  xerophytic  vegetation  composed 
chiefly  of  perennial  herbs  and  shrubs.  Since  the 
floral  composition  is  fairly  uniform  from  north  to 
south  one  may  study  these  plants  equally  well  near 
almost  any  of  the  beach  resorts. 

Very  characteristic  of  the  dunes  are  the  Abronias, 
or  sand  verbenas,  of  which  A.  umbellata  (rose-pink) 
and  A.  latifolia  (yellow)  are  the  most  common.  The 
roots  of  these  plants  are  often  much  enlarged,  thus 
serving  for  storage,  while  the  broad  opposite  leaves 
are  thick  and  succulent.  The  most  marked  examples 
of  succulent  herbage,  however,  are  the  Mesembryan- 
themums,  or  sea  figs,  the  enlarged  often  trigonous 
leaves  of  which  serve  admirably  as  water  reservoirs. 
The  pale  scurfy-leaved  saltbushes  (Atriplex)  and 
the  hairy-coated  Franserias  (F.  bipinnatifida  and  F. 
chamissonis),  bear  unmistakable  evidence  of  their 
xerophytic  nature.  More  beautiful  than  the  humble 
herbs  just  mentioned  are  the  bush  lupines  of  the 
dunes  with  their  attractive  racemes  of  yellow, 
bluish,  or  purplish  flowers  and  silvery-pubescent 
compound  leaves.  Similarly  pleasing  are  the  Oeno- 
theras,  the  most  common  of  which  is  OE.  cheiranthi- 
folia,  whose  tough  woody  stems  either  trail  over  the 
dunes  or  arise  reluctantly  from  them  and  bear,  in 
addition  to  their  hairy-protected  leaves,  an  almost 
continuous  succession  of  yellow  blossoms.  On  the 
southern  beaches  occur  "Calandrinia  maritima,  a 
succulent  glabrous  annual  with  red  flowers,  and 
Amblyopappus  pnsillus,  an  erect  fleshy  Composite 
herb  found  also  on  the  coasts  of  Chile.  The  sand 
strawberry  (Fragaria  chilensis),  another  species 
which  occurs  also  in  Chile,  will  be  found  from  San 
Luis  Obispo  to  Vancouver.  The  dune  tansy 
(Tanacetum  camphoratum)  is  restricted  to  the 
beaches  and  dunes  from  Monterey  to  Humboldt,  but 
is  replaced  on  the  coast  of  Oregon  and  Washington 
by  T.  huronense.  From  Monterey  northward  will  be 
found  the  beach  pea  ( 'Lathy rus  littoralis)  which 
although  botanically  a  sweet  pea,  looks  much  more 
like  a  Hosackia  or  a  lupine  because  of  its  silky- 
villous  herbage. 

Flora  of  the  Plains  and  Lower  Foothill  Slopes 
(Lower  Sonoran  and  Upper  Sonoran  zones). — In 
early  springtime,  when  the  sun's  warm  rays  heat  up 

148 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

the  soil  still  moist  from  winter's  rain,  innumerable 
annuals  cover  the  plains,  first  with  green,  then  with 
a  gorgeous  array  of  floral  colors  and  extend  up  the 
slopes  until  lost  amid  the  shrubs  of  the  foothill  belt. 
This  is  the  scene  over  which  poets  thrill  and  botan- 
ists despair.  For  this  is  the  home  of  the  California 
POPPY  (of  which  some  claim  that  there  are  more 
than  a  hundred  species),  and  of  the  cream-cups, 
and  Phacelias,  and  Godetias,  and  Baerias,  and  tidy- 
tips,  and  a  thousand  other  beautiful  but,  to  the  bot- 
anist, perplexing  groups  of  closely  related  species. 

Suburban  railways  from  almost  any  city,  from 
San  Diego  to  Seattle,  will  carry  one  into  these  flow- 
ery gardens,  but  it  is  in  southern  California  and 
along  the  borders  of  the  Great  Central  Valley  that 
the  greatest  profusion  of  flowers  is  to  be  seen.  One 
reason  for  this  is  the  absence  of  sod-forming  grasses, 
the  annuals  thus  being  permitted  to  occupy  the 
whole  area  whenever  moisture  and  temperature  con- 
ditions are  favorable. 

If  the  visiting  botanist  selects  the  plains  or  foot- 
hill slopes  of  southern  California  for  his  excursion 
he  will  be  impressed  with  the  preponderance  of 
Composites,  indicating  perhaps,  the  close  relation 
with  the  Mexican  flora.  Baeria  chrysostoma  grows 
in  such  abundance  that  it  is  known  as  gold-fields. 
B.  coronaria  is  equally  plentiful  in  some  parts  of 
San  Diego  County  and  both  species  furnish  excellent 
material  for  the  study  of  variation  as  related  to  en- 
vironment. Layia,  Coreopsis,  Chaenactis,  and  (at 
San  Diego)  Pentachaeta  are  other  abundant  Com- 
posite genera.  Because  of  the  large  and  showy  cup- 
shaped  flowers,  the  various  species  of  CalocJiortus 
(mariposa  lily),  a  characteristic  western  genus,  are 
easily  found,  especially  along  the  foothills.  Another 
liliaceous  group,  the  Brodiaeas,  which  grow  from 
edible  cprms  and  bear  umbels  of  usually  bluish 
flowers,  inhabit  clay  soils.  The  rare  Matilija  poppy, 
well  known  for  its  magnificent  white  flowers,  is 
best  seen  in  the  Ojai  Valley,  Ventura  County,  and 
in  Santiago  Canon,  Orange  County,  but  it  also  occurs 
in  masses  in  Temescal  Wash,  southeast  of  Corona, 
and  in  San  Diego  County. 

Many  of  the  genera  just  mentioned  may  also  be 
found  on  the  coastal  slope  of  middle  California,  but 
here  there  is  a  larger  proportion  of  grasses  and  of 
perennials,  consequently  the  foliage  is  more  luxu- 
riant, and  the  flowers  are  less  conspicuous.  During 
the  spring  and  summer  months,  Baerias,  Layias  and 
other  Composites  still  dominate  certain  slopes,  such 
as  those  around  Lake  Merced,  just  south  of  San 
Francisco.  On  down  the  San  Francisco  Peninsula 

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FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

are  to  be  seen  extensive  fields  of  Eschscholtzia  and 
Platystemon.  Those  who  journey  still  farther  south- 
ward will  find  all  of  the  foothill  slopes  around  the 
Santa  Clara  Valley  teeming  with  attractive  and  inter- 
esting species.  To  the  east  and  north  of  San  Fran- 
cisco Bav  the  hill  districts  form  the  chief  attraction. 
Here  will  be  found  Brodiaea,  Chlorogalum,  Sidalcea, 
Orthocarpus,  Castilleia,  Wyethia,  Nemophila,  Lathy- 
rus,  and  many  other  genera  of  showy  or  otherwise 
interesting  seed  plants.  Passing  northward  into 
Oregon  and  Washington  these  formations  become  of 
less  and  less  importance.  There  the  coniferous  for- 
ests predominate. 

The  Chaparral  Flora  (Upper  Sonoran  zone). — 
Chaparral  is  a  term  applied  in  the  West  to  any  low 
and  shrubby  growth  regardless  of  the  species  of 
which  it  may  be  composed.  Its  individuals  are  lit- 
erally the  "little  chaps"  as  contrasted  with  the  for- 
est trees.  It  corresponds  to  the  maqui  of  the  Medit- 
erranean region,  and  to  the  scrub  of  Australia. 
Although  it  occurs  also  in  other  life  zones,  chaparral 
is  with  us  preeminently  characteristic  of  the  Upper 
Sonoran,  or,  as  it  is  often  called,  the  foothill  or 
chaparral  belt. 

Our  Upper  Sonoran  chaparral  is  strongly  xero- 
phytic  in  character.  The  root  system  is  well  devel- 
oped and  in  many  cases  harbors  bacteria  the  presence 
of  which  is  presumably  beneficial;  the  branching  is 
profuse  and  intricate;  the  usually  narrow  evergreen 
leaves  are  heavily  cutinized,  often  covered  with 
tomentum  (e.  g.,  Artemisia  californica,  Eriodictyon 
tomentosum,  Malvqstrum  of  several  species) ,  or  they 
may  assume  a  vertical  position  (Arctostaphylos,  Den- 
dromecon).  Often  the  herbage  is  strongly  resinous 
(Ericameria,  Baccharis)  or  coated  with  a  gummy  or 
wax-like  layer  (Eriodictyon  calif ornicum). 

In  order  to  observe  the  many  peculiarities  of  our 
shrubby  vegetation  it  is  necessary  to  travel  only  a 
short  distance  from  the  cities  and  towns  usually 
visited,  for  chaparral  abounds  in  almost  every  dis- 
trict except  along  the  northwest  coast.  In  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  San  Diego  it  is  restricted  chiefly  to 
northerly  slopes  of  the  arroyos,  but  here  are  found 
Mexican  species  of  the  Lower  Sonoran  zone  which 
do  not  occur  much  farther  north.  Such  are  Viguiera 
laciniatq  and  Encelia  farinosa,  both  yellow-flowered 
Composites,  the  latter  ranging  north  to  San  Bernar- 
dino. Along  the  foothills  from  this  last-named  city 
to  Los  Angeles  is  found  a  broad  chaparral  belt  in 
which  the  chamisal  (Adenostoma  caltfornica)  is 
very  prominent.  This  narrow-leaved  Rosaceous 
shrub  is  one  of  the  most  abundant  in  the  whole 

150 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

state  and  is  especially  beautiful  in  summer  and 
autumn  when  thousands  of  miles  of  foothill  slope 
are  suffused  with  the  warm  reddish-brown  tints  of 
its  fading  bloom.  This  southern  chaparral  also  in- 
cludes the  scrub  oak  (Quercus  dumosa),  many 
species  of  Ceanothus,  Arctostaphylos,  and  Artemisia, 
as  well  as  other  elements.  Of  economic  as  well  as 
biologic  interest  are  two  shrubby  species  of  Salvia, 
S.  apiana,  the  white  sage,  and  S.  mellifera,  known  as 
black  sage.  Both  of  these  are  important  bee  plants 
as  is  also  an  abundant  shrubby  Eriogonum  (E.  fasci- 
culatum).  The  yellow-flowered  tree  poppy  mav  be 
seen  at  its  best  on  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains  back 
of  Santa  Barbara.  The  Spanish  bayonet  (Yucca 
whipplei)  is  of  more  general  distribution,  for  it 
grows  on  nearly  all  the  lower  mountains  where  its 
creamy  white  panicles  far  overtop  the  surrounding 
vegetation,  giving  to  the  landscape  a  unique  and 
pleasing  aspect.  (See  PI.  XX.) 

The  general  appearance  as  well  as  the  floral  com- 
position changes  but  slightly  as  we  pass  northward, 
except  that  northerly  slopes  are  given  over  to  broad- 
leaved  shrubs  and  trees  of  the  Transition  zone.  On 
the  south-facing  slopes  of  Mount  Tamalpais,  in  the 
vicinity  of  San  Francisco,  the  dominant  shrubs  are 
the  same  as  in  the  chaparral  of  southern  California. 
In  addition  to  these  one  will  encounter  some  species 
and  even  a  few  genera  not  represented  in  the  south. 
An  example  of  the  remarkable  ability  of  chaparral 
to  re-cover  a  burned  area  by  means  of  stump- 
sprouting  may  be  studied  on  the  south  slopes  of 
Mount  Tamalpais.  In  July,  1913,  these  were  swept 
by  a  fire  which  killed  to  me  ground  all  shrubs  over 
a  large  area.  The  present  condition  is  therefore  the 
result  of  growth  since  that  time. 

In  the  more  northerly  Coast  Ranges  the  chapar- 
ral is  confined  to  the  poor  soil  of  dry  ridges  which 
occur  here  and  there  in  the  redwood  belt  and  to  the 
arid  districts  beyond  the  immediate  influence  of 
coast  fogs.  The  San  Joao^iin  and  Sacramento  val- 
leys are  completely  encircled  by  a  chaparral  belt 
which  extends  up  to  the  forests  of  the  Coast  Ranges 
and  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Therefore  any  excursion 
into  the  inner  North  Coast  Ranges,  or  from  the  Great 
Central  Valley  to  any  of  the  mountain  resorts  will 
necessarily  lead  one  through  districts  where  chap- 
arral may  be  studied  to  advantage. 

In  northeastern  California,  Oregon,  and  Wash- 
ington is  encountered  a  more  open  formation,  char- 
acteristic of  the  Columbia  and  Great  basins.  Here 
the  shrubs  are  low  and  often  pale  or  gray  in  color. 
The  most  abundant  species  are  the  sagebrush 

151 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

(Artemisia  tridentata),  rabbit-brush  (Chrysothamnus 
of  several  species),  hop  sage  (Grayia  spinosa),  ante- 
lope brush  (Purshia  tridentata),  and  in  alkaline  soil 
black  greasewopd  (Sarcobatus  vermiculatus). 

The  Mountain  Flora  (Transition,  Canadian,  Hud- 
sonian,  and  Arctic-Alpine  zones). — In  the  mountain- 
ous districts  the  most  important  life  zone  is  the 
Transition,  so-named  because  here  the  boreal  and 
the  southern  elements  of  the  flora  meet.  Except 
along  the  coastal  strip  it  coincides  in  general  with 
the  yellow  pine  belt.  Here  the  botanical  traveler 
will  find  a  delightful  and  exhilarating  climate  dur- 
ing the  summer  months.  If  he  comes  from  the  east- 
ern states  most  of  the  genera  and  some  of  the  species 
will  be  already  familiar  to  him,  if  from  the  north  or 
from  northern  Europe  he  will  feel  more  at  home, 
botanically,  in  the  higher  zones.  Vast  areas  of  yel- 
low pine  forest  are  easily  accessible  by  wagon  road 
or  trail  from  all  the  mountain  settlements  and  re- 
sorts, while  those  who  desire  more  strenuous  mount- 
aineering will  find  ample  test  for  their  skill. 

In  the  open  forests  will  be  found  a  scattering 
growth  of  flowering  herbs.  These  increase  in  abun- 
dance as  the  trees  become  better  spaced,  thus  admit- 
ting more  light.  Pentstemons  are  plentiful,  especially 
in  the  south.  Monardellas,  Gilias,  several  species 
each  of  Pedicularis,  Lathyrus,  Hosackiq,  and  many 
other  genera  are  not  uncommon.  Thick-stemmed 
saprophytes  like  Pterospora,  Pleuricospora,  Coral- 
lorhiza,  and  Pyrola  aphylla  force  their  way  through 
the  carpet  of  pine  needles.  The  most  popular  of 
these  saprophytes  is  the  snow  plant  (Sarcodes  san- 
guinea)  the  thick  red  stalks  of  which  appear  soon 
after  the  snow  has  melted  and  remain  as  conspicu- 
ous elements  until  autumn.  Although  not  abundant 
it  may  be  expected  anywhere  in  this  zone  from 
southern  California  to  Oregon. 

But  it  is  only  in  the  forest  openings  that  one  finds 
flowering  plants  in  profusion.  Gravelly  slopes  along 
rocky  outcroppings  and  exposed  ridges  are  the  most 
productive.  Such  localities  may  be  yellow  with 
Eriogonum  and  Eriophyllum,  both  of  which  western 
genera  are  represented  by  many  species,  or  blue 
with  Erigerons  or  Asters,  or  brilliant  with  several 
sorts  of  Pentstemon,  but  always  with  an  admixture 
of  many  species  belonging  to  other  genera. 

Here  and  there  the  forest  opens  up  to  make  room 
for  a  mountain  meadow  the  composition  of  which 
will  vary  with  the  moisture  content  of  the  soil  as 
well  as  with  geographical  position.  A  small  meadow 
in  Butte  County,  California,  may  be  described  as 
typical  of  those  to  be  found  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

152 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

Here  the  most  prominent  species  is  Castilleia  min- 
iata  the  numerous  red  spikes  of  which  impart  a 
rich  warm  color  to  the  vegetation.  Next  in  import- 
ance are  the  white  heads  of  Selinum,  which  overtop 
all  else  save  where  the  clumps  of  lupine  (Lupinus 
polyphyllus)  carry  their  blue  racemes  still  higher. 
On  one  gentle  southerly  slope  the  elephant  heads 
(Pedicularis  attollens)  are  very  conspicuous  and  the 
whole  meadow  is  punctuated  with  the  white  spikes 
of  the  Sierra  rein-orchis  (Habenaria  leucostachys). 
More  than  twenty  other  species  in  addition  to  the 
grasses  and  rushes  also  inhabit  this  meadow. 

Comparatively  dry  meadows  and  grass-land  are 
also  frequent,  affording  excellent  opportunity  for 
researches  upon  the  relation  of  environment  to  dis- 
tribution and  structure. 

The  riparian  and  bog  formations  have  each  their 
characteristic  species,  but  mention  can  be  made  only 
of  the  California  pitcher  plant  (Darlingtonia  cali- 
fornica).  This  noted  insectivorous  species  grows  in 
boggy  meadows  of  northern  California  and  southern 
Oregon.  It  may  be  most  conveniently  examined  at 
the  "18th  crossing,"  a  few  miles  south  of  Sisson  on 
the  San  Francisco  and  Portland  line  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  or  in  Butterfly  Valley,  just  south  of 
Keddie  on  the  line  of  the  Western  Pacific  Railroad. 
The  plants  are  much  finer  and  more  abundant  at 
this  latter  localitv. 

Passing  over  the  Canadian  and  Hudsonian  zones 
we  may  now  take  a  brief  survey  of  the  flora  above 
timber:line.  The  Arctic-Alpine  zone,  the  lower  limit 
of  which  is  marked  by  timber-line,  scarcely  occurs 
in  southern  California.  On  southerly  slopes  it  be- 
gins at  an  average  altitude  of  11,000  feet  in  the 
southern  Sierra  Nevada,  at  9500  feet  on  Mount 
Shasta,  and  at  about  6500  feet  in  Washington. 
Throughout  its  whole  extent  the  vegetation  and  the 
flora  are  fairly  uniform.  In  this  zone  all  plants  have 
deep  perennial  roots  and  low  tough  stems.  The 
leaves,  closely  huddled  near  the  base  or  along  the 
short  stems,  are  heavily  cutinized.  Among  the  char- 
acteristic species,  all  of  boreal  origin,  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Arctic  willow  (Salix  arctica  var.  petraea) 
with  stems  only  two  or  three  inches  high;  Cassiope 
mertensiana  with  thick  overlapping  leaves  and 
dainty  pendant  flowers;  the  Alpine  sorrel  (Oxyria 
digyna),  well  known  in  Arctic  and  Alpine  districts 
around  the  world;  Polemonium  eximium,  with 
showy  blue  flowers  (replaced  in  Washington  by 
P.  elegans),  and  a  number  of  Composites,  mostly 
with  yellow  flowers.  This  is  only  the  beginning  of 
a  long  series  of  species  which  might  be  enumerated. 

153 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

The  large  number  of  forms,  the  remarkable  adapta- 
tions to  so  rigorous  a  habitat,  and  the  brilliancy  of 
the  colors  displayed  all  conspire  to  make  a  study  of 
the  Alpine  flora  an  exceedingly  attractive  occupa- 
tion. The  highest  summits  are  Beyond  the  reach  of 
seed  plants,  but  the  rocks  support  a  meager  lichen 
flora. 

Flora  of  the  Northwest  Coast  (mainly  of  the 
Humid  Transition  area). — The  term  Northwest 
Coast  is  here  used  to  designate  the  coastal  slope  of 
Washington  and  Oregon,  west  of  the  Cascade  Mount- 
ains, and  northern  California  west  of  the  Coast 
Ranges.  Because  of  its  moist  climate  and  equable 
temperature  this  coastal  strip  sustains  the  densest 
forests  in  North  America.  Save  on  the  open  prairies, 
which  occur  in  limited  number,  the  herbaceous  flora 
is  composed  almost  entirely  of  broad-leaved  meso- 
phytes.  These,  however,  are  exceedingly  luxuriant. 
In  the  densest  shade  the  ground  is  covered  with 
mosses  and  ferns,  of  which  a  sword  fern  (Poly- 
stichum  munition)  is  the  most  abundant.  Here  also 
are  found  the  huckleberries  (Vacciniam  parvifolium 
and  V.  ovatum).  Where  the  forest  is  more  open 
the  sword  fern  is  replaced  by  the  common  brake 
(Pteris  oquilina),  and  two  sub-shrubs  become  com- 
mon, namely,  the  Oregon  grape  (Berberis  neruosa) 
and  the  salal  (Gaultheria  shallon).  The  salal  is 
especially  prominent,  often  covering  the  forest  floor 
for  miles  with  almost  impenetrable  thickets.  Along 
stream-borders  from  Santa  Cruz  northward  to  near 
the  Oregon  line  will  be  found  the  delightfully  fra- 
grant western  azalea  (Rhododendron  occidentale), 
while  the  California  rose  bay  (R.  calif ornicum)  is 
partial  to  rugged  mountain  sides  and  grows  as  far 
north  as  British  Columbia. 

In  favorable  situations,  particularly  in  the  more 
southerly  redwood  belt,  we  find  a  good  representa- 
tion of  herbaceous  shade-plants.  Several  species  of 
Heuchera  and  Tellima  throw  out  their  rounded 
leaves  in  broad  rosettes,  and  twin-flowers  (Linnaea 
borealis)  overhang  the  moss-covered  logs.  Vancou- 
veria,  with  fern-like  foliage  but  flowers  so  odd  that 
they  are  termed  inside-out  flowers,  grow  in  small 
clumps  on  the  better-drained  slopes.  Here  also 
trail  the  wood-loving  Whipplea  (W.  modesta)  and 
the  yerba  buena  (Micromeria  chamissonis),  the  trail- 
ing mint  which  gave  to  San  Francisco  its  earliest 
name.  On  wet  bottom-lands  and  along  streams  one 
will  find  the  salmon  berry  (Rubus  spectabilis),  the 
red-berried  elder  (Sambucus  callicarpa),  and  sev- 
eral species  of  Ribes.  The  devil's  club  (Echinopanax 
horridum),  a  foetid  prickly  red-fruited  shrub  with 

154 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

large  palmately  lobed  leaves,  also  belongs  to  this 
association  but  does  not  occur  south  of  Oregon. 

LOCALITIES  OF  SPECIAL  BOTANICAL  INTEREST 

TUCSON,  ARIZONA.  Here  are  located  the  Desert 
Botanical  Laboratory  of  the  Carnegie  Institution 
and  the  University  of  Arizona.  The  surrounding  ter- 
ritory affords  splendid  opportunities  for  the  study 
of  desert  flora. 

SAN  DIEGO,  CALIFORNIA.  The  mesa  flora  is  here  of 
particular  interest  and  is  abundant  to  the  north  and 
east  of  the  exposition  grounds.  Visitors  to  Tia  Juana 
should  take  private  conveyance  in  order  to  drive  to 
the  westernmost  boundary  monument,  where  Agave 
shaivii  may  be  seen,  and  to  return  by  way  of  the 
Silver  Strand  in  order  to  study  the  beach  flora. 
Back  of  San  Diego  will  be  founa  a  highly  interest- 
ing mountain  region,  dominated  by  Cuyamaca  Peak, 
considerable  areas  of  which  extend  well  into  the 
yellow  pine  belt.  El  Campo,  forty  miles  east  from 
San  Diego,  is  in  the  midst  of  a  chaparral  flora  of 
exceptional  interest  since  desert  and  Mexican  ele- 
ments are  much  in  evidence.  Annual  flowering 
plants  are  abundant  in  springtime,  filling  in  all 
spaces  left  vacant  by  the  shrubs  which  are  them- 
selves often  brilliant  with  the  blood-red  flowers  of  a 
climbing  Lathyrus.  El  Campo  is  on  the  San  Diego- 
El  Centro  stage  line.  Those  traveling  by  private 
conveyance  should  return  via  Pine  Valley  and  the 
Viejas  Grade.  The  desert  flora  may  be  observed  by 
continuing  easterly  to  Mountain  Springs 

RIVERSIDE,  CALIFORNIA.  The  mesa  and  foothill 
flora  may  be  examined  to  best  advantage  by  taking 
the  electric  cars  to  the  Bloomington  plains  or  the 
daily  San  Jacinto  auto-bus  to  "the  fill"  on  Box 
Springs  Grade  and  walking  back  cross-country  to 
Eighth  and  Ottawa  streets  where  return  transpor- 
tation may  be  had. 

REDLANDS,  CALIFORNIA.  San  Timoteo  Canon,  back 
of  Smilev  Heights,  should  be  explored  for  its  pro- 
fusion of  annuals  intermixed  with  chaparral.  Mill 
Creek  Canon  is  very  interesting  botanically. 

SAN  BERNARDINO,  CALIFORNIA.  The  electric  line 
to  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs  will  carry  one  to  the 
heart  of  the  chaparral  belt.  Annuals  grow  in  abun- 
dance around  the  mouth  of  Waterman  Canon, 
crossed  by  the  same  line. 

Los  ANGELES  AND  PASADENA.  Numerous  electric 
lines  lead  to  Hollywood,  Altadena,  Sierra  Madre,  and 
other  foothill  stations  as  far  east  as  San  Bernardino. 
The  Mount  Lowe  Railway  takes  one  into  the  edge  of 
the  yellow  pine  belt  in  a  few  hours.  More  will  be 

155 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

seen,  however,  if  one  has  time  to  make  the  ascent  by 
train  or  to  drive  (by  auto  or  team)  up  the  Santa 
Anita  grade.  Redondo,  Playa  del  Rey,  and  other 
beach  resorts  afford  opportunity  for  the  study  of 
the  beach  and  dune  flora. 

SANTA  BARBARA.  From  the  mission  one  may  ex- 
plore Mission  Valley  or,  better,  follow  the  Mountain 
Drive.  Here  will  be  found  the  rare  and  showy 
Venegasia,  a  sub-shrub  much  more  handsome  than 
the  sunflowers,  to  which  it  is  related.  The  Tunnel 
Trail  to  the  summit  of  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains 
affords  a  delightful  day's  trip  for  the  observation  of 
chaparral  and  annual  flowering  plants. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  ENVIRONS.  Dune  and  beach 
plants  are  abundant  south  of  Golden  Gate  Park  and 
at  Land's  End.  Electric  lines  running  south  to  San 
Mateo,  etc.,  lead  through  many  fields  of  showy  an- 
nuals. These  are  especially  luxuriant  on  the  slopes 
a  short  distance  west  of  Millbrae.  The  foothills 
back  of  Stanford  University  are  very  attractive  bot- 
anically  and  easily  reached  from  Palo  Alto. 

Mount  Tamalpais  dominates  the  peninsula  north 
of  the  Golden  Gate  and  should  be  visited  by  all 
botanists.  Salt-marsh  plants  abound  between  the 
bay  shore  and  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  From  Mill 
Valley  the  railroad  winds  through  a  sea  of  chaparral 
which  extends  to  the  very  summit.  Both  the  peak 
and  Muir  Woods,  a  redwood  reservation  with  a  char- 
acteristic vegetation,  may  be  visited  in  one  day  but 
this  is  not  advisable.  The  enthusiast  will  much  pre- 
fer the  trails  from  Mill  Valley,  or  he  may  take  the 
train  to  the  summit  or  to  Muir  Woods  and  walk 
back. 

On  the  easterly  shore  of  San  Francisco  bay  num- 
erous electric  lines  lead  to  the  hills  and  canons 
where  good  collecting  abounds.  The  Oakland  and 
Antioch  Railway  pierces  the  Oakland  Hills  and  so 
transports  one  in  less  than  an  hour's  time  to  locali- 
ties where  the  vegetation  is  still  in  its  original  con- 
dition. Pinehurst  Station,  in  Redwood  Canon,  is 
especially  recommended.  From  here  a  two-mile 
walk  brings  one  to  Moraga,  where  return  trains  may 
be  taken. 

UKIAH,  CALIFORNIA.  This  is  in  the  heart  of  the 
inner  Coast  Ranges.  The  Terraces,  where  many 
native  plants  are  grown  under  cultivation,  lie  some 
seven  miles  to  the  east  up  an  interesting  canon. 
Lake  County  resorts  are  reached  by  stage  from 
either  Ukiah  or  Calistoga. 

YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  The  best  botanizing  is  on  the 
slopes  around  the  valley  borders  and  away  from  the 
popular  trails.  The  Tenaya  trail  above  Mirror  Lake 

156 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

is  recommended.  Bog  and  shade  plants  abound 
near  Happy  Isles  and  Iron  Spring.  The  wise  en- 
thusiast will  use  the  trails  early  in  the  day  and 
avoid  the  parties  "under  guidance"  as  far  as  pos- 
sible. The  most  productive  fields  are  around  the 
valley's  rim.  One  should  make  headquarters  for  a 
portion  of  his  time  at  Glacier  Point,  whence  the 
rich  flora  of  Sentinel  Dome  as  well  as  that  of  numer- 
ous meadows  and  bogs  may  be  easily  explored.  In 
order  to  reach  the  Alpine  zone  of  the  High  Sierra 
from  Yosemite  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  packing  trip 
of  several  days'  duration. 

LAKE  TAHOE.  The  Sierra  Nevadan  flora  may  be 
conveniently  investigated  from  any  of  the  numer- 
ous resorts  around  the  Lake.  Deer  Park  Springs 
and  the  resorts  from  Emerald  Bay  to  Fallen  Leaf 
Lake  are  well  situated  for  plants  of  the  forests. 
Glen  Alpine  affords  more  ready  access  to  the  higher 
zones  and  especially  to  the  Alpine  flora  of  Pyramid, 
Ralston  and  other  high  peaks. 

MOUNT  SHASTA.  This  mountain  is  usually  as- 
cended from  Sisson.  The  flora  of  the  middle  zones 
is  very  rich  but  the  Alpine  flora  is  disappointing. 

SUMMIT,  PLACER  COUNTY,  CALIFORNIA.  Passen- 
gers on  the  Central  Pacific  Railway  may  stop  over 
here  and  examine  the  sub-alpine  flora.  Peaks  above 
timber-line  are  within  a  day's  walk  and  Donner 
Lake  lies  two  miles  to  the  east. 

EUREKA,  CALIFORNIA.  The  flora  of  the  redwood 
belt  is  conveniently  observed  about  Eureka  and  Ar- 
cata.  Samoa  Peninsula  with  a  rich  beach  and  dune 
flora  is  also  within  easy  reach. 

PORTLAND,  OREGON.  A  trip  should  be  taken  up 
the  Columbia  River,  one  way  by  boat,  the  other  by 
train.  Abundant  plant  material  may  be  obtained 
by  stopping  at  Cascade  Locks.  The  coast  may  be 
visited  at  Seaside  which  may  be  reached  by  boat  or 
rail  from  Portland.  This  is  a  day's  trip  each  way. 
The  beach  may  also  be  reached  from  Albany  by  rail 
to  Newport,  and  from  Eugene  by  rail  and  boat  to 
Florence.  The  available  plant  life  of  dune  and 
down  and  bog  is  abundant. 

CRATER  LAKE,  OREGON.  This  national  park  may 
be  reached  from  Medford  by  auto  stage.  The  trip  is 
of  great  botanical  interest  and  there  is  an  especially 
good  display  of  flowering  plants  at  the  summit. 
Those  who  have  sufficient  time  should  by  all  means 
make  the  trip  by  private  conveyance. 

TACOMA.  A  visit  to  American  Lake  and  vicinity 
by  any  of  the  several  lines  is  recommended.  The 
running  time  is  less  than  an  hour  and  both  prairie 
and  forest  plants  will  be  found  in  abundance  along 

157 


FLORA  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 

the  route.  At  Tacoma  one  will  find  excellent  oppor- 
tunity to  study  the  vegetation  of  the  salt  marshes. 
Mount  Rainier,  which  extends  above  the  limit  of 
flowering  plants  is  reached  by  stage.  Those  who 
take  the  Rainier  trip  will  find  an  abundance  of 
alpine  species  in  and  around  Paradise  Park. 

SEATTLE.  The  flora  of  the  coniferous  forest 
formation  may  be  reached  by  any  line  that  extends 
beyond  the  cleared  districts.  The  Lake  Washington 
district  is  recommended. 

REFERENCES 

ABRAMS,  L.  R. 

1904.  Flora  of  Los  Angeles  and  vicinity.  (Stanford  Uni- 
versity Press),  pp.  i-xi,  1-474.  (Descriptions  and 
keys  for  all  the  spermatophytes.) 

1910.  A  phytogeographic  and  taxonomic  study  of  southern 

California  trees  and  shrubs.     Bull.  N.  Y.  Botanical 
Garden,  vol.  6,  pp.  300-485,  10  pis.     (Keys  and  dis- 
tribution.) 
CARNEGIE   INSTITUTION   OF  WASHINGTON. 

Numerous  publications,  treating  especially  of  desert  plants. 
COVILLE,  F.  V. 

1893.  Botany  of  the  Death  Valley  Expedition.     Contrib.  U. 
S.    Nation.   Herb.,   vol.   4,   pp.    i-viii,    1-363,    22   pis., 
map. 
EASTWOOD,  ALICE. 

1902.  A  Flora   of   the   South   Fork   of   Kings   River.     Publ. 
Sierra  Club,   no.   27,   pp.   1-96,   9  figs,  in  text.     (De- 
scriptions of  ferns  and  flowering  plants.) 
GRAY,  A.,  BREWER,  W.  H.,  and  WATSON,  S. 

1876-1880.  Botany  of  California.     Geological  Survey  of  Cali- 
fornia.      (Boston,    Little,     Brown,    and    Company), 
vol.   1,  pp.  i-xx,  1-628;  vol.  2,  pp.  i-xv,  1-559.     (De- 
scriptions and  keys.) 
HALL,  H.  M.,  and  HALL,  C.  C. 

1912.  A  Yosemite   flora.      (San   Francisco,   Paul   Elder  and 
Company),   pp.   I-vii,   1-282,   11  pis.  and  171  figs,   in 
text.     (Descriptions  and  keys  for  ferns  and  flower- 
ing plants  of  the  Yosemite  National  Park.) 
HOWELL,  T. 

1897.  A   flora   of  Northwest  America.      (Portland,    Ore.,   J. 
K.   Gill  Co.),   pp.   1-816.     Descriptions  of  spermato- 
phytes of  Oregon,   Washington,   and  Idaho. 
JEPSON,  W.  L. 

1911.  A   flora    of   western    middle    California.      Second    Ed. 

(San  Francisco,  Cunningham,  Curtiss  &  Welch), 
515  pp.  (Descriptions  and  keys  for  all  spermato- 
phytes.) 

1909-1914.  A  flora  of  California.  (San  Francisco,  Cunning- 
ham, Curtiss  &  Welch),  Part  I,  pp.  33-64,  figs. 
1-14;  Part  II,  pp.  337-368,  figs.  61-65;  Part  III,  pp. 
65-192;  Part  IV,  pp.  369-464,  figs.  66-91;  Part  V,  pp. 
465-528,  figs.  92-105. 
PARSONS,  M.  E.,  and  BUCK,  M.  W. 

1909.  The  wild  flowers  of  California.     (San  Francisco,  Cun- 
ningham, Curtiss  &  Welch),  pp    i-cvi,  1-417.     (De- 
scriptions and   illustrations  of   the   more   conspicu- 
ous species.) 
PIPER,  C.  V. 

1906.  Flora   of   the    State   of   Washington.      Contrib.    U.    S. 

Nation.  Herb.,  vol.  11;  pp.  1-637,  pis.  I-XXII,  map. 
UNIVERSITY   OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Publications  in  Botany,  vols.  1-6.  (Berkeley,  Univ.  Calif, 
Press.)  (Contain  numerous  papers  and  mono- 
graphs on  west  American  plants.) 

158 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Introductory  Note vii 

The  Approaches  to  the  Pacific  Coast      ....       1 
FREDERICK   J.   TEGGART.     Associate   Professor  of 
Pacific  Coast  History,  University  of  California. 

Spanish  Settlements  on  the  Pacific  Coast    ...       9 
CHARLES  E.  CHAPMAN.     Sometime  Traveling  Fel- 
low in  Pacific  Coast  History,  N.  S.  G.  W.,  Uni- 
versity of  California. 

Historical  Sketch  of  the  Panama  Canal  ....     15 
EUDOLPH  J.  TAUSSIG.     Secretary,  Panama-Pacific 
International  Exposition,  San  Francisco. 

Weather  Conditions  on  the  Pacific  Coast    ...     19 
ALEXANDER    McAoiE.      Abbott    Lawrence    Botch 
Professor  of  Meteorology,  Harvard  University. 

Physiographic  Geography 31 

EULIFF     S.     HOLWAY.       Associate    Professor    of 
Physical    Geography,   University    of    California. 

Geology  of  the  West  Coast  Region  of  the  United 

States 41 

C.  F.  TOLMAN,  JR.     Associate  Professor  of  Eco- 
nomic Geology,  Stanford  University. 

Earthquakes 62 

J.  C.  BRANNER.     President,  Stanford  University. 

Mines  and  Mining 65 

H.  FOSTER  BAIN.     Editor,  Mining  and  Scientific 
Press,   San   Francisco. 

Petroleum  Resources  and  Industries  of  the  Pa- 
cific Coast 75 

EALPH  ARNOLD.     Consulting  Geologist  and  Petro- 
leum Engineer,  Los  Angeles. 

Significant  Features  in  the  History  of  Life  on 

the  Pacific  Coast 88 

JOHN   C.   MERRIAM.     Professor   of   Palaeontology 
and  Historical  Geology,  University  of  California. 

The  Vertebrate  Fauna  of  the  Pacific  Coast .     .     .  104 
JOSEPH   GRINNELL.     Director,   Museum  of  Verte- 
brate Zoology,  University  of  California. 

Fishes  of  the  Pacific  Coast 115 

DAVID  STARR  JORDAN.     Chancellor,  Stanford  Uni- 
versity. 

Marine  Biology  on  the  Pacific  Coast 124 

CHARLES  ATWOOD  KOFOID.    Professor  of  Zoology, 
University  of  California. 

Oceanic  Circulation  and  Temperature  Off  the 

Pacific  Coast 133 

GEORGE  F.  McEwEN.     Scripps  Institution  for  Bio- 
logical Eeseareh,  La  Jolla,  California. 

Insects  of  the  Pacific  Coast 141 

VERNON  L.  KELLOGG.     Professor  of  Entomology, 
Stanford  University. 


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